Marcin and I ventured into the sleepy lakeside town of Barlinek on Saturday night to eat dinner and scope out the nightlife, with our thirst for a Polish beer dictating our path. After 30 seconds or so, we’d done all the scoping required to paint a somewhat dreary impression of the town’s watering holes. We did, however, find a charming restaurant sat on the main square, which provided pierogi, pizza and a Polish tipple.

We convened in the hotel dining room this morning, eyes squinting and heads slightly tender; a quick bite to eat, a
strong cup of coffee, and we were on the road once more. Cedynia, Poland’s Western-most town, was highlighted on the map. Each car journey has become an event to anticipate with excitement, and the 90 minute drive from Barlinek was most definitely worth the wait.

Cedynia is one of the oldest settlements in Poland. Although the town’s centrally located fountain alludes to its ancient heritage, with statues depicting ancient warriors, it belies the extent of the town’s rich history. As I’m from Hastings, in which a historically significant battle occurred, I found it fascinating to discover historical similarities.

We were greeted by our guide at the town’s dainty museum. A rapid glimpse at the few glass cases on display yielded everything we needed to see in the museum; the real history was in the land surrounding the town.

We took a stroll through the hilly streets of Cedynia, passing an array of stunning viewpoints, a cacophony of barking dogs providing the theme song for our visit. Our guide led us to a set of steps which ascended into, what appeared to be, a field. We climbed the mount, admiring the spectacular scenery visible from the top, and set about taking pictures. We were then informed that the original settlement of Cedynia, established in the 9th century, was located where we stood. Our guide even sifted through the sandy soil to produce a chip of ceramic which dated back over 1,000 years! It seemed the site was littered with similar items.

We were then fascinated to learn that Cedinya was the setting for the first ever battle in recorded Polish history. In 972, the residents of Cedinya fought off fierce attack from a German invasion, led by a general named Hodon. Skipping almost ten centuries, in 1945 the last ever battle in Polish history also occurred in the town, when the Soviet army ousted the Nazi stronghold. The events in the town, then, sandwich the history of events in Polish warfare, making it a pivotal historical location.

Finally, our guide from the museum took us to a viewing tower, which was built circa 1890. The whole town was visible, as well as the stunning surrounding region.

With our history lesson over, we met Pawel Pawłowski, the town’s chief of culture and sport – who was dressed to resemble Ray Mears’ Polish cousin – for a tour of the countryside surrounding Cedynia.

The panoramic views were breathtaking! So far, my favourite aspect of Poland has been the immense natural beauty on offer. The woodland known as Cedynia Landscape Park, which lies South-East of the town, covers a mountainous ridge, with a micro-climate that surprisingly nurtures Mediterranean flora. On the walk back to the car, we came across remnants of Russian trenches, which carved through the land.

In broke English, Pawel informed us that lunch was to be eaten at a ‘monastery’. We didn’t foresee, nor expect, what was in store!

The approach to Hotel Klasztor is not fitting for such a luxurious, elegant building: a residential suburb of Cedynia, formed of apartment blocks and playing fields, characterised the approach. Pawel was correct, insomuch as the building was once a monastery, yet both the interior fittings and the facade were in no way modest. Originally built in 1266, but renovated just 10 years ago, the 4 star hotel oozed luxuriousness and was quite unique in the level of service it provided. This may explain why the clientele comprises roughly 95% German nationals, who make the trip across the nearby border. Golden chandeliers adorned the grand dining hall and roses decorated each table. While Marcin feasted on a starter of cheese and ham, I sampled a Polish traditional dish – zurek – which was served in a hollowed bread loaf. Next, we each ordered a delicious steak. We were given a tour of the grounds and admired the breathtaking views, before leaving with full bellies and extreme reluctance.

With just enough time for one final attraction, we pulled over at the impressive monument which commemorated the battle of Cedynia. It was constructed in 1972 – 1,000 years after the war – and sits perched atop a hill, overlooking expansive grassy planes into Germany.  It was a great way to reflect on a really interesting day, in a picturesque town.

Tomorrow’s day is the most action-packed yet! It’s a contender for day of the trip so far. Be sure to see what we get up to by reading the post and watching the video.

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Marcin’s video from the day: